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Whether acquired cold from a panel truck at a rural corner, or hot from a village macelleria, porchetta is Italy's favorite sandwich meat. Though duplicating this fennel-stuffed roast with the copper crackling skin in this country is patently impossible, 'Inoteca has made a noble stab at it. Their sometime special of herb-stuffed and well-fatted porchetta, piled on an elongated roll and sided with grated cheese, pickled onions, and parsley, is as good as we're going to get here.
Following in the footsteps of 'Ino, which invented the genre here in New York, 'INOTECA is the most perfect exemplum so far, with an Italian wine list filled with unexpected finds, a fine list of cheeses and cured meats, fritters, and the trademark panini and tramezzini that made its forebear justly famous. More »
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