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Chef Michael Voltaggio is famously an advocate of modernist cuisine, as driven by technique as by ingredients, and overall by the imperative of originality. His dish of young turnips and radishes is clearly inspired by the gargouillou of Michel Bras, a touchstone dish of modernist cuisine embraced by chefs like René Redzepi and David Kinch, but his version is subtly different: The lightly cooked vegetables are planted in the coffee-cardamom soil, sure, there's the requisite jellied underlayer (flavored here with nasturtium) and heaps of frozen yogurt transformed into powder snow in a Pacojet, but the composition seems his own.
If you're out on the town and you've got a drink in your hand, chances are that it's been made with a spirit you didn't ask for by name. Instead, the booze likely was selected by the bar manager as th... More »
Food & Wine magazine's annual Best New Chef competition is up and running, and while in some ways it's just one more meaningless popularity contest aimed at garnering huge pageviews for the magazine's... More »
Where the Chefs Eat is an ongoing series in which we ask a local chef to give us his or her favorite dining options. This week we talk to Hinoki & The Bird and Comme Ca chef David Myers. Burgers, Jap... More »
In Japan, a restaurant recently served an entire tasting menu of dirt -- dirt soup, dirt dressing, dirt risotto ... you get the idea. At Copenhagen's Noma (aka the Best! Restaurant! in the WORLD!!) y... More »
As you may or may not have noticed, our 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants issue came out this week. Over the next few days we'll be highlighting a few categories drawing from the list. Today: Cocktails! ... More »
It's impossible these days to open a serious eatery without a serious cocktail program, but rarely do the drinks at a restaurant so closely match the kinks and ambitions of the kitchen as at ink. Bartenders Gabriella Mlynarczyk and Brittini Rae Peterson keep pace with chef Michael Voltaggio's penchant for highly conceptual, designer food with a list of highly conceptual, designer drinks. Cocktails at ink. often incorporate elements that tie them to the menu -- not specifically but in... More »
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