Indomania

• Cuisine(s): Indonesian, Dutch
  Hours: Tue-Sat 6pm-11pm
  Price: $$, $$$
• Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards
  Attire: Casual
  Features: Takeout, Private Party
• Serving: Dinner
  Reservations: Accepted, Recommended
  Parking: Meters

Description

Indomania, a new Dutch-Indonesian restaurant in Miami Beach, is owned and operated by Dutch couple Pieter and Ineke Both. He welcomes guests to the stylish and streamlined establishment, pours drinks at the compact bar, and helps out with the front of the house; she works with an Indonesian chef to produce the food in the kitchen. Daughter Isabelle waits on the dozen or so tables, many lined against charcoal banquette seating that occupies the left side of the space. Pale gray and white walls are adorned with batik cloths and a blown-up black-and-white photo of a cute little Indonesian girl slurping noodles. Rijsttafel is the house specialty, but rather than served as numerous dishes of food, as is tradition, the components -- anchored by a mound of steamy rice -- come crammed onto a single plate: ayam opor (chicken braised with coconut milk); grilled, skewered chicken sateh (satay); crisped green beans, pickled cucumbers, a hard-boiled egg splashed in curry sauce; and, best of the lot, daging semur, softly braised chunks of beef in dark, sweet kecap manis sauce. The Boths shrewdly include a vegetarian rijsttafel, which substitutes a few added veggies and sateh tempeh for the meats. It's a lot of fresh food for a good price ($18), and that's pretty much the story for the rest of the limited number of items. Best main course is a meltingly tender duck breast grilled, steamed in banana leaves, and imbued with a wealth of Balinese herbs and spices. For dessert, be sure to try the buttery lemon pie, which comes with a scoop of refreshing mango sorbet on the side. Dinner here is like eating at the home of a lovable but absent-minded relative with a knack for good cooking -- the orchestration might be shaky, but hospitality and fare will be fine. And a good time will be had by all.