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From the first plunk of a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano onto a side plate (and on another plate bruschetta, and on another fried zucchini), to a complimentary limoncello with the check, brothers Gino and Fernando Masci march out a succession of solidly, sometimes stunningly satisfying traditional Italian fare. The siblings come to Miami by way of their hometown of Abruzzi, Italy, with a 26-year stopover as owners of Greenwich Village's renowned Il Mulino. They, along with Luigi Tullio, have re-created the magic here in the east tower of downtown's One Miami building. Don't bypass the pasta dishes, whose fresh, chewy noodles are churned out by a seasoned New York pasta chef and sautéed in the dining room by the Masci brothers. Porcini ravioli bathed in champagne sauce is effectively flecked with black truffle, black pepper, and Parmesan cheese, while even a simple pappardelle with tomatoes, basil, and olive oil inspires awe for the way its few ingredients harmonize while retaining their distinct notes. By-the-book veal saltimboca, osso buco, salt-crusted branzino, and other classics make Il Gabbiano one of Miami's top spots for quality, authentic Italian fare. It also offers a vista of Biscayne Bay, an extensive wine list, and solid service. Starters run from $15 to $22, pastas $20 to $26, risotti at $36.75, entrées $25.75 to $58. Specials cost more.
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Brothers Gino and Fernando Masci come to Miami by way of their hometown of Abruzzi, Italy — with a 26-year stopover as owners of Greenwich Village's renowned and star-studded Il Mulino. They had planned on retiring after they sold that venture... More »
If a person from a Third-World country saw a platter of fried zucchini, a platter of bruschetta topped with ripe red tomatoes, and a rock-size chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, he or she would likely exclaim, "My good Lord, a banquet!" Guests dining at Il Gabbiano are more likely to say, "Gee, that was a nice complimentary snack; let's order dinner now." That's reality for Luigi Tullio and brothers Gino and Fernando Masci, who came to Miami with a sense of abundance and hospitality learned... More »
The chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano that gets plunked upon your plate is complimentary. So are toasts piled with bright bruschetta, a plate of garlic-fried zucchini slices, and sourdough bread with olive oil. At the end of the meal, glasses of limoncello are poured -- free of charge. Everything else at Il Gabbiano is priced sky-high, which also describes the quality of hearty New York-style Italian fare. Take, for instance, the pastas, homemade by an Italian pasta chef who worked with the... More »
The chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano that gets plunked upon your plate is complimentary. So are toasts piled with bright bruschetta, a plate of garlic-fried zucchini slices, and sourdough bread with olive oil. At the end of the meal, glasses of limoncello are poured — free of charge. Everything else at Il Gabbiano is priced sky-high, which also describes the quality of hearty New York-style Italian fare. Take, for instance, the pastas, homemade by an Italian pasta chef who worked with the owners during their decades-long success running Il Mulino in New York City — the porcini ravioli bathed in champagne sauce costs $38, but, as the getting-old cliché goes, the taste is priceless. Same standards apply to grilled calamari ($19), osso buco Milanese ($42), grilled branzino ($48), and a textbook tiramisu ($12). There are 200 wines and outdoor seating with a gorgeous vista of Biscayne Bay. Yes, it is all so very expensive, but only if you pay. The trick is to maneuver things so that someone else does (although try to avoid doing so on a Sunday — when Gabbiano is closed).
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