Description
Roberto Bignes holds a certificate from the Associazione Verace Pizza
Napoletana, an Italian group of pizza makers that keeps track of this sort
of thing. And at his modest square of a restaurant kitty-corner from
Triangle Square, he skims ever closer and is seemingly determined on
fine-tuning his pies toward the Neapolitan pizza ideal. His mozzarella is
house-made. His olive oil, premium. And most important, when you bite into
his crust, it crackles with the prickly sound of a million tiny molecular
bonds breaking.
