Hidden in the basement of this West African store-a jumble of chew sticks, wonderful small roasted peanuts in salvaged colonial booze bottles, stockfish pitched into cardboard boxes, and other toothsome treats-is a Nigerian restaurant, where a friendly hostess with cowrie shells woven into her hair serves mashes like pounded yam and amala (sun-dried cassava) with goat in a pepper-laced sauce. This is one of the few places in town where you can wash your dinner down with palm wine, which doesn't contain alcohol, but is refreshing nonetheless.
Jumbled on its crowded shelves are bottles of roasted peanuts, wooden chew sticks, palm oil glowing orange, pepper-laced vinegar sauces, stacks of newspapers, piles of roots, and cardboard boxes filled with dried fish sunburned black. ICONS AFRO-WEST isn't the most orderly grocery, but it's one of the most interesting. Added bonus: there's a Nigerian restaurant downstairs. More »
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