Description
Huong Giang sells all the famous dishes of Central Vietnam, but it’s actually best known for chartecurie, a side business so successful that half of the restaurant is a kitchen where women make bulk orders, and the to-go menu lists only meats and egg rolls. Sausages come in many varieties, but the best are the ones spiked with periwinkle—not the color but rather the clam, here mixed alongside ginger and pork then patted around lemongrass, briny yet brawny. Even better is what they translate into English as “pork hash” but is better appreciated as Vietnamese Spam: compressed ham mixed with shreds of daikon and a long sliver of habanero waiting for you to bite into it and sweat.
![No. 94, \](/img/halftone.png "No. 94, \")
