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The kitschy name doesn"t do it any favors, but luckily the food at this new Noho noodle joint makes up for any misguided appellations. While appetizers like the lobster salad aren"t to be missed, it"s the hand-pulled noodles, available in thick or thin (get the thick), that are the restaurant"s forte. They take center stage in esoteric soup combinations, like the unctuous veal-cheek one, studded with globules of marrow, liver, Japanese sweet potato and quince, though. Prices are higher than at your standard Chinatown noodle joint, but the quality and ambiance here are far greater. One thing's for sure: You won"t leave hungry from Hung Ry.
Hung Ry, a sleek Noho eatery, offers modern takes on Chinese–style soups, though the chefs' noodle-pulling skills are old-school all the way. Each bowl offers this contrast of new and old, but our favorite is the veal cheek, brimming with bobbing globs of pale white bone marrow plus sliced liver, Japanese sweet potato, and quartered quinces. The unctuous marrow lends a subtle richness, melting in your mouth like a big pat of butter, only more animal-y. The noodles come thin or thick,... More »
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