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What may be the first real Hunan restaurant in the city, Hunan House, features hot, sour, and salty tastes, with as much spiciness as Sichuan, but lacking the peppercorns. "Braised fish with pickled chili sauce"-the first dish on the House Special menu--features an entire striped bass smothered in pickled red and orange chiles, with the head of the fish propped up for easy access to eyes and cheeks. Other great dishes included braised pork Mao's style (the Chairman grew up in a Hunan village), white chili with preserved beef, sautéed vegetable with spicy sauce, bean curd in green scallion sauce, and smoked duck. A tureen of cooling pumpkin soup should be ordered to stanch the burn.
Somewhat stealthily, Chinese restaurants are becoming some of the city's best. Counter Culture recently identified Bamboo Pavilion in Bensonhurst as one example, tendering perfectly executed Sichuan fare of superior delicacy. Now, like a bull... More »
Chinese diners have been appreciating fish heads for years. Not only do they add a pleasing gooey texture to the broth, but the individual parts of the fish face have estimable flavors all their own: The skin on the forehead and chin is crisp and slides off easily, the eyeballs pop when bitten into, and the flesh below the eye, known as the cheek, is the most succulent found anywhere on a finned creature. At the brilliant new restaurant Hunan House, dishes like the whole fish braised with... More »
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