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With admirable economy, this tiny restaurant concentrates on one foodstuff, and one alone. Luckily, the hummus is superb-creamy, garlicky, and paradoxically dense and light with alternating forkfuls. Of three configurations, the best involves the warm fava bean stew known as "fool" poured over the top, adding a beany and darkly flavored jolt to the sunny hummus, which is also dressed with olive oil and a sliced boiled egg dusted with paprika. This circus of tastes is further sided with a pair of puffy pitas and a pickle selection, making one of the city's most perfect cheap meals. Other locations in the West Village on the Upper West Side, see the website: www.hummusplace.com.
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