Description
Ethan Stowell's third restaurant looks like a cross between a cigar box and a sauna, and not much bigger than either. It's a casual neighborhood joint for people who enjoy hanging out in tiny, refined spaces and are comfortable ordering off a menu that refuses to define itself in courses. A meal at Queen Anne's Wolf might start with a plate of escolar crudo, which gives way to chicken-liver bruschetta drizzled in balsamic vinaigrette, then a bowl of gnocchi with cauliflower and olives. The dishes are of the moment, both in terms of food trends and the seasons, and the cooking is frequently exquisite. So are the martinis and Angela Stowell's list of Italian wines.
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