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Houston's should be the model for how to run a modern American restaurant. The service borders on impeccable, with an exactness of purpose you'd expect from professionals. The dishes are served piping-hot without the rigamarole of who gets what. And the food is everything chains such as Chili's and Applebee's can aspire to but never achieve. A Thai-steak noodle salad is bright and lovely, singing notes from the right herbs and spices. The French dip is glorious in its simplicity, a compact and lusciously tender beef sandwich under a properly toasted butter-soaked roll. The Knife and Fork Ribs fall apart without so much as a nudge. But the most surprising of all are the sushi rolls, which aren't just reverential, but also brilliant, especially the Thai-inspired one that has bits of peanut in it.
Fries these addictive should not just belong in a restaurant like Houston's. They should be sold on every street corner and for pennies, not as a side to a piece of steak that will cost significantly more. But we suppose it just provides an excuse to eat the steak. Houston's fries are of the shoestring variety; as thin as matchsticks, as crisp as chips, and so tasty they must have been fried in something unholy. More »
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