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Maybe because restaurant critics like me spend so many nights at restaurants, shuffling bread plates and wine glasses, anticipating the arrival of courses, playing my role in the fixed rituals of the ... More »
First came the banana leaves: glossy, dark-green rectangles, cut down to the size of placemats and perpendicularly striped with veins. Our server covered the table in leaves so that we could only see the wood around the edges. Then she brought... More »
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