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Some stars shine brighter after they burn out. Recovered from a 1995 fire, the French-rooted New American kitchen sparkles. Among the appetizers, choose from pté of the day served with onion relish, plump sautéed escargots, or steamed mussels. Long Island duckling in a caramelized orange sauce and rack of Australian spring lamb on a pinot noir reduction are entrées that highlight the talents of New Renaissance chef Hendrik Cornelissen. For dessert, a puffy chocolate soufflé eclipses all other sweets. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Chef/owner/Italophile Gaetano Ascione might have intended for his new eponymous restaurant, a replacement for the long-adored St. Michel (a mere memory by January 2010), to be appealing to everyone. But the lawyers, bankers, judges, and suit-and-tie-wearers about town seem to buzz around here at lunchtime like bees. Their honey: Gaetano's authentic eats, such as his paccheri al pomodoro, large tube pasta with burrata, tomatoes, and basil sauce ($12), along with various paninis, salads, pasta... More »
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