Home Style Dumpling is as small a restaurant as they come: a counter carved out of a liquor store, in between the ice box and the chips aisle, with a stove and two tables. The man and woman who run it try their best to class up their business: A chalkboard outside lists the day's specials, they trot out two panchan with each meal, the chilled barley tea is on the house, and they'll even artfully slice up cantaloupe for you as a free dessert. The menu is understandably limited: a nicely toasted bibimbap, beautifully messy jjajangmyung and a spicy ramen soup pulled from the liquor-store counter, but also containing a fat, bobbing, glorious beef mandoo, the legendary Korean dumpling that's the main reason you should visit.
I keep a general rule about not reviewing restaurants that open in locations that once housed dives I previously covered. It's dumb logic, sure (and Edwin sure as hell doesn't follow it—nor should he), but I almost find such a thought an insult... More »
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