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In the grand tradition of emigrés who appreciate their adopted land more than the natives do, Jersey-native, French-kitchen-trained Lenny Russo is the Minnesota chef most dedicated to exploring the possibilities of a native Midwestern cuisine. The excellent wine list and respectful, peaceful service make the fine-dining room at Heartland the best fancy meal in St. Paul. Heartland is intellectually stimulating, heart-soothing, welcoming to newcomers, and feeding off the rich native soil. The restaurant's new digs, in the 1902 Market House in Lowertown, offer a gorgeous view of the St. Paul Farmers' Market, plus private banquet and meeting rooms, a cutaway floor that offers glimpses into the lower-level commissary kitchen, an airy lounge (the restaurant now has a full liquor license), several kitchen-side tables, and the Farm Direct Market, where diners can take home the same raw ingredients (meats, produce, etc.) used at the restaurant, as well as house-made, value-added products such as stocks, soups, preserves, charcuterie, baked goods, and grab-and-go prepared fare.
At first glance, you might not think of Heartland, home of elegant farm-to-table, hyper-local food, as a café, but the Farm Direct Market is exactly the sort of neighborhood gathering ground every food fan would love to live near. Rich and toasty Dogwood coffee is brewed by the cup. The sandwiches are built entirely from scratch: Every slice of bread and condiment is made onsite. Even better, the flavor combinations are glorious. The vegetarian options are some of the most intriguing,... More »
The menu is noticeably wordy, but it's the food that is truly a mouthful at Heartland in Lowertown, the downtown St. Paul district that's drawing foodies from all corners who want to experience something truly revelatory. Chef Lenny Russo, a James Beard Award finalist in the prestigious category of Best Chef: Midwest, hasn't slowed down in the slightest since opening this beacon for locally grown produce in 2002 (it moved to the current location in 2010). Since then, Heartland has gained a... More »
Usually we judge our chefs by their accomplishments on the plate. And Lenny Russo has certainly been widely praised for his haute Midwestern cooking as he treats indigenous ingredients--whitefish, currants, elk--with impressive reverence. But when he recently relocated his Heartland restaurant to Lowertown St. Paul and expanded operations to include a lounge and banquet rooms, plus a market and deli, Russo truly broadened his ambitions. He wasn't simply on a mission to please... More »
If you want a sense of chef Lenny Russo's fastidious nature, just read his menu: "Wildflower honey-hazelnut-pumpkin seed gâteau marjolaine with passion fruit sauce, hazelnut praline, high bush cranberry-apricot jelly, and passion fruit-cherry sorbet." Whew! And that's just one dessert. If a chef puts that much effort into writing, just think what he can do with a knife. Heartland is the place you take local food skeptics who think eating seasonally in the Midwest is a joke. With Russo... More »
Lenny Russo, chef-owner of Heartland in St. Paul, was doing the whole local, seasonal, sustainable thing way before it was hip. Russo's love for his Midwestern pantry shows through in his poetic menu descriptions: "Pan-seared Singerhouse Farm rabbit loin with black trumpet mushrooms, organic leeks, and roasted carrot coulis.... North Star Farm elk roast with baby root vegetables, braised red chard, and black walnut-foie gras butter.... Milk chocolate mousse with a honey-oat Florentine cup, a... More »
Heartland has raised the bar for every restaurant in the Twin Cities by asking, "Just how much can a northern restaurant really expect to source locally?" And then giving an answer that demolishes every other restaurant's "I can't." Can so, say executive chef Lenny Russo and chef de cuisine Robert Moore. In late March, when nearly everyone else in town is working with California carrots and Mexican tomatoes, Heartland was still working with root vegetables preserved in local farmers' cellars... More »
Never, not one time, in all the years of going to Heartland, have we ever had a meal at St. Paul's most earnest and accomplished restaurant without catching sight of Lenny Russo standing at a table, answering questions. Where did the flour for this roll come from? (Waseca.) How do you poach a pullet egg to float it in a cup of duck consommé? (Carefully.) Why does most everything come from the northern Midwest and from sustainable small farmers? ("Because we're trying to live by a... More »
You better get into Heartland while the getting's good, because this little can-do spot with the from-scratch-everything, all-regional menu has been for sale since January. Yes, it's been for sale since January! Seriously. Chef and owner Lenny Russo is looking to get out of his bucolic, gorgeous little neighborhood in part because you St. Paulites only come out on Fridays and Saturdays, and he needs to be able to even out employees' schedules, cash flow, and so forth, over the whole week. So... More »
Of course it would take a guy from Hoboken to give the Midwest the restaurant it most desperately needed. Lenny Russo has long had a reputation as one of Minnesota's most exacting chefs, making all his stocks and other foundations for his cooking from scratch even when he helmed such giant kitchens as W.A. Frost and Company's. But it has only been at his new restaurant, Heartland, that Russo has been able to run free with the idea Minnesota desperately needed: Heartland is a Midwestern... More »
See also: Top 10 Indian restaurants in the Twin Cities Top 10 farmers markets in the Twin Cities Top 10 street eats in the Twin Cities There's no shame in not wanting to cook. With a frantic pace of ... More »
To kick off 2012, we're highlighting 12 of the best dishes under $12 in the Twin Cities. Scroll down to view the complete list. We should all be so lucky to live in Lenny Russo's neighborhood. As th... More »
Just a few years ago, Minneapolis's dining scene boomed at the pace of the country's housing market: The only place to go was up. Restaurants were opening faster than you could say "Check, please," with one ambitious project following the next.... More »
Last week, the new Heartland restaurant opened its Farm Direct Market, a sort of locavore's farmers market/grocery store crossed with a deli, bakery, and coffee shop. We stopped by to check out the ... More »
We have to admit--St. Paul is gaining an edge. On Tuesday chef Lenny Russo opens up Heartland's Farm Direct Market, where patrons can buy the restaurant's house-made charcuterie, jams, and jellies. It... More »
Lenny Russo, chef-owner of Heartland in St. Paul, was doing the whole local, seasonal, sustainable thing way before it was hip. Russo's love for his Midwestern pantry shows through in his poetic menu descriptions: "Pan-seared Singerhouse Farm rabbit loin with black trumpet mushrooms, organic leeks, and roasted carrot coulis.... North Star Farm elk roast with baby root vegetables, braised red chard, and black walnut-foie gras butter.... Milk chocolate mousse with a honey-oat Florentine cup, a chocolate-hazelnut truffle, and Frangelico sabayon...." The fixed-price meals are the best way to experience Russo's depth and breadth—the vegetarian version is hands-down the best high-class, meatless meal in the city. The service at Heartland is as classy as the beautiful Arts and Crafts dining room, from which you can watch Russo cook. The adjacent wine bar, which Russo opened a couple of years ago, is a long, sexy space with smaller portions than the main room, plus cheese and charcuterie, so foodies on a budget can get a piece of Heartland's bounty.
Amazing...
I'm excited for the new location!
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