Description
Those who mourned the closure of Sabetta and the loss of its talented chef, Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio, will find something in common with those who mocked the former incarnation of this restaurant at 3200 Kirby (mawkish, members-only nightclub Dorsia, which was roundly ridiculed from the moment it opened). Hawthorn quietly draws rave reviews from diners for its menu of refined Italian standards mixed with more upscale Texan fare under the expert guidance of chef Palazzo-Giorgio. Witness an appetizer of Texas quail stuffed with farro, toasted pinenuts and dried cranberry, for example, or an entrée of housemade agnolotti with braised rabbit — all of which is served in a classic, old-school dining room complete with an elegant man at the piano.
