No foodstuff is more antithetical to the modern San Franciscan palate than Spam. Lord knows how many pigs contributed to each cube of pressed, formed meat, nor how many chemicals keep it fresh in the can. But Hawaiians know: Spam tastes good. Hawaiian Drive-Inn is a no-nonsense plate-lunch joint where chicken katsu and beef teriyaki come with two scoops of rice and one scoop of macaroni salad, and where half the takeout customers order Spam musubis in multiples of five (they're only $1.60... More »
