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The main dining room at Citrus lay at the heart of California cooking in the mid-1980s, a clean, white space opening directly onto the restaurant's vast open kitchen, where you imagined you could follow the progress of your appetizer from garde manger to hot line to the spot where Michel Richard sponged a stray bit of sauce off the acre-wide plate. And if you've ever been to Citrus, the new Hatfield's is likely to snap your neck backward: The dining room has been scrubbed to its former glory, and there is a gravity, a sense of occasion about Hatfield's that never quite existed before it was transplanted from its smallish quarters a half-mile west. What used to seem quirky, or even chefly stubbornness - Quinn and Karen Hatfield's unchanging menu of yellowtail croque madame, smoked potatoes and date-crusted lamb - now reads more like an artistic statement. The culture-blending on dishes like seasonal seared prawns coated with Basque pepper and served on a vaguely Asian crab rice with toasted peanuts; or braised short ribs; or charred seasonal Japanese mackerel with avocado, dried pineapple and a salsa that splits the difference between Mexico City and Osaka, is assured. I visited the old Hatfield's at least half a dozen times, and it wasn't until they opened the new restaurant that I realized how well they cooked.
To support the Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP), Hatfield's has put together a benefit tasting menu that begins with hor d'oeuvres lik...
Our 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants issue came out last week, and we're highlighting a few categories drawing from the list. Today, we're focusing on special occasion restaurants. If you're like us, a s... More »
There are myriad beautiful things about Hatfield's, Quinn and Karen Hatfield's comfortably large Melrose Avenue restaurant. The enormous, open kitchen that occupies the center like a performance space; the pretty hanging pots; the rows of lowered... More »
Unstoppable force, meet the immovable object; or so we believed when we saw that pastry chef Karen Hatfield put a chocolate mint frozen pavlova on her dessert menu. Coming from one direction is perhaps the most talented, precise and intelligent pastry chef in town. Coming from the other is sweetened egg whites. But while pavlova isn't normally thrilling, Hatfield's isn't a normal restaurant. It's where we go to be coddled by an exceedingly knowledgeable and warm staff, where every dish... More »
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