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A little off the beaten path of Chinatown, Happy Star Bakery (formerly known as Sun Light Bakery Corp.) is a strange amalgamation of things: traditional Chinese bakery, dim sum house, and fresh noodle spot. While the baked goods are fine (and their partner shop, right next door, has more of a selection), the main draw is the fresh noodles. The noodles are made to order: the batter is strung onto a shelf in a steam cabinet and topped with whatever fixings you like (scallions, cilantro, pork, shrimp, beef stew, or egg) and shut in the cabinet for a few minutes, left to cook until perfectly gooey and chewy. Service here is typical of most small Chinatown places, and this is cash only. Pork buns are also on offer but seem to sell out quickly. But that's probably because most everything costs less than two bucks. --Shane Barnes
Now that summer's heat is abating, and the subway platforms are cooling, it's time to get out and do some urban exploring. Our Fall Guide this year will be devoted to the city's five Chinatowns. Maybe you only know about two or three of them,... More »
Sun Light Bakery Corp. is, of course, a bakery--one half of it, at least--but the other door leads to a small warren where a woman in an orange baseball cap makes the Chinese rice noodles called gee cheung fun by pouring a soupy and livid-white batter into a steam cabinet tray, then scrapes the result off with a spatula into your carryout container. At your direction, she puts shrimp, scallions, Spam, or other items drawn from a list that includes over two dozen items. Our favorite: having t... More »
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