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If there is one dish to try at Happy Family, it is the stir-fried lily buds with lycium berries. The main ingredient looks like white concave cups, its appearance similar to separated layers of an onion. But where you expect to be stung, sweetness comes. Its calming presence on the plate pulls together a dish bright and invigorating with snow peas carefully snipped of their stems, sliced asparagus and the slightly tart red flecks of the lycium berry.
When you finally tire of the narcissism and self-righteousness that pervades most vegetarian/vegan restaurants, come to Happy Family. Here, meat abstinence isn't a fashionable lifestyle choice; it's religion. Even if you don't quite buy the Buddhist sutras that forbid garlic and onion because they engender anger and irritability in mortals, you won't miss them. Besides, you could do well by being less angry and irritable these days. Whether by the power of suggestion, the things you eat here... More »
More than six months have passed since Happy Family Vegetarian replaced May Garden in Costa Mesa, but practically every other person who walks in the door asks the same question: “What happened to May Garden?” One night, the hostess, by now no... More »
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