Description
Chef Hooni Kim, who found acclaim and a cult-following at Danji, has crafted a group-friendly menu of traditional and modern Korean dishes at his latest Flatiron restaurant. The structure of the meal is as thoughtful as the food itself: All cold dishes (first smaller plates, then bigger ones) are served before any hot dishes (again, little courses before larger ones) and many of these are excellent. Delicate fried perilla leaves stuffed with bits of salty pork and shrimp pair well with makgeolli -- an alcoholic brew of yeast and rice -- or a soju cocktail. Hungry diners can order crispy pieces of boneless, “fresh-killed” chickens which are locally slaughtered in Brooklyn each day and served with house-made Korean condiments, or delve into the darker, deeper flavors of the Korean kitchen with braised beltfish and fresh rice sticks fried in pork fat. Hanjan’s sophisticated kitchen make this charming, rickety tavern more than just a drinking den. --Tejal Rao
