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If it served nothing but galbi tang, it would still be enough reason for you to wait in line at this former A&W Drive-In. Though the meat has been coddled under a long, slow simmer to loosen its grip with just a gentle nudge of your chopsticks, all Han Yang diners take it upon themselves to pick up the ribs and fulfill their basest, primal caveman instincts of tearing off sopping mouthfuls of it with their teeth. The soup will, at first, appear to be unremarkable; save for green onions, softened cloves of garlic, a long rectangle of thinly sliced omelet, vermicelli noodles and dots of red jujubes, it’s crystal-clear and plain-looking. But a taste will reveal it to be a nectar sweet, salty and savory—a broth that can only be produced someone with saintly patience. It’s simply breathtaking. To just call it a great Korean soup would be unfair—this is just great soup.
Homer: Wait a minute. Wait a minute. Lisa, honey, are you saying you're never going to eat any animal again? What about bacon? Lisa: No. Homer: Ham? Lisa: No! Homer: Pork chops? Lisa: Dad, thos... More »
I always go into these end-of-year lists thinking they'd be be a cinch to do. Then, I actually start doing it and realize how hard it is. No, it's not the writing part--that's easy; it's the winnowing... More »
Have you noticed? Little Seoul, once constrained within the confines of Garden Grove, is slowly spilling into sections of Buena Park, spreading the gospel of its food to territories previously only notable for jousting knights and boysenberry... More »
The two things you see at every table at Han Yang are the two things you must order: the donkatsu, a breaded pork cutlet of divine design and unearthly perfection, and the beef bone soup called galbitang, which might serve as a cure-all if the FDA ever allowed it to be bottled. The donkatsu has a greaseless cocoon of breading that's at once delicate and so endearingly crunchy you'll think some voodoo magic was involved. The meat in the middle is pristinely tender, without a trace of sinew.... More »
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