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This new contender for the East Village ramen crown is the first NYC branch of a well-loved Japanese chain. While Setagaya, a fellow import, is known for its salt-based broth, Ippudo traffics in tonkotsu, a long-simmered pork stock. The basic shiromaru ramen has a serious, substantial broth. It's the color of milky tea, and deeply porky. The ramen is ultra thin, like angel hair, and delicately wheaty. When the bowl arrives, the noodles have a nice chewy bite, but they get softer as they sit in the broth, so it's best to slurp them up speedily. Toppings are basic: black mushrooms, stewed pork belly, cabbage, scallions. It's all about the broth and the noodles, and there are only three varieties to choose from. Spice-lovers should go for option number three, the bowl with spicy meat sauce that you stir into the broth, rendering it brick red and incredibly tasty. But don't get the pickles;a bowl full of seasoned rice vinegar with a few measly sticks of bell pepper, carrot and radish bobbing within.
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In February, word went round that Ippudo would be expanding its insanely popular ramen empire from the East Village to Midtown. Few details were available at the time, but now Crain's reports that the... More »
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The point of ramen used to be its Spartan edge--wickedly cheap, edible raw, unapologetically junky. In a nuclear winter, it would be the cockroaches and the ramen that survived. Improbable as it may have sounded then, the Cold War has given way to the East Village ramen wars. Our choice for the ramen crown is Ippudo, where the long-simmered broth is deliciously porky and the homemade ramen are thin, slippery, and manage to be both delicate and firm. Meanwhile, packaged ramen has evolved. T... More »
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