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In the Little Phnom Penh neighborhood of Long Beach is Hak Heang - all glowing neon, elaborate live-seafood tanks and yawning seas of tables, waitresses whipping around the room with endless streams of Tsingtao, fried fish and sputtering skewers of Cambodian shish kebab. The anchovy beef, a small, marinated steak grilled medium rare, sliced thin, and served with a relish of shaved raw eggplant, fermented fish, garlic and a little vinegar, is a rare Cambodian dish that would make almost as much sense at a country restaurant in southern Piemonte as it would along the banks of the Tonle Sap.
A 10-minute taxi ride from downtown Phnom Penh, out past the colonial mansions of the international district and over the squat Japanese Friendship Bridge on the national Highway 6, the biggest concentration of restaurants in Cambodia lies along... More »
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