Description
There may be 50 Oaxacan restaurants in Los Angeles at the moment, each of them claiming the blackest mole, the gooiest memela and the tlayuda biggest in circumference, but Guelaguetza, the first serious Oaxacan restaurant in town is still the best, with the mintiest green mole, the richest mole amarillo and the spiciest goat barbacoa. At the original Koreatown location of Guelaguetza, not far from the biggest concentration of Oaxacan restaurants and bakeries this side of Oaxaca itself, you'll find superspicy grasshoppers, tlayudas the size of manhole covers and delicious, mole-drenched tamales. The black mole, based on ingredients the restaurant brings up from Oaxaca itself, is rich with chopped chocolate and burnt grain, toasted chile, and wave upon wave of textured spice - it's as simple yet as nuanced as a great, old Côte Rôtie.
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