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On Fridays during Lent, Guagua Pichincha (named after a volcano south of Quito) pulls out all the stops and whips up fanesca, a stew that, by legend, includes one bean for each of the Christian apostles. The rest of the year, you'll be content with one of the voluminous Ecuadorian platters. Arranged like the national flag, bandera features turmeric-laced tripe stew, white rice, and goat stew, with an excellent soupy shrimp ceviche on the side. Also recommended are the fever-yellow potato pancakes called llapingachos, and encebollado mixto, a meal-size fish soup that, as the name implies, is heavy on the onions.
When it comes to the seaboard cooking of Ecuador, it's all about the soups. At Sunnyside's Guagua Pichincha (named after a volcano), minced swordfish and shrimp vie for supremacy in oniony fumet in the soup called encebollado mixto.
When it comes to the seaboard cooking of Ecuador, it's all about the soups. At Sunnyside's Guagua Pichincha (named after a volcano), minced swordfish and shrimp vie for supremacy in oniony fumet in the soup called encebollado mixto. More »
Calvin Trillin is a fanesca fanatic. By tradition, this stew incorporates 12 types of beansone for each of the Christian apostlesinto a stock made from salt cod, rendering the dish briny beneath its earthy bean component. Served all over... More »
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