Description
Gradisca is an upscale Greenwich Village trattoria which marries home-cooked, Italian know how with sophisticated, seasonal interpretation. Owner Massimo Galeano even enlists his mother, Caterina, into pasta-making duties, flying her over from Bologna ever few months. When she's on the job, she sits in the front of her son's darkened, basement ristorante, rolling out wide noodles and twisting delicately prepared veal or pork into tortellini. Chef Daniele Boldrini is also from Bologna and augments mama's handmade goods with an ever-changing menu and creative preparations. Caponata, truffle, and less typical flavors like peach bolster fine cuts of meats in the secundi. The two dining rooms both feature lots of brick, rustic wooden furniture, and red stucco--a combination that's brimming with cozy, romantic aires. Reservations are recommended for big parties and prime mealtimes. While the dishes are pricey, the portions are polite, so Gradisca's classic, well-regarded tiramisu will be especially tempting toward the end of the meal. --Alex Spoto
