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Just off Figueroa in Highland Park, across the street from the parking lot of the beloved Mr. T’s Bowl, Good Girl Dinette is a clean, airy space, filled with earnest couples and young families, serving bubbly soft drinks made with farmers market fruit (the Meyer lemon is especially good) and preparing a menu of Vietnamese-American comfort food that is especially friendly to vegans. The spicy fries are astonishingly good — topped with the mince of cilantro, fresh chiles and garlic you usually see on Vietnamese-Chinese fried crab or squid. The chicken pot pie, made with a yellow Vietnamese curry and topped with a dense, crisp-topped biscuit, is wonderful. And the clove-spiked beef stew, plumped out with plenty of carrots, is a perfect amalgam of Vietnamese flavors and Depression-era diner cooking, a blend that seems to be exactly what its Highland Park neighborhood, and these times, demand.
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Chef Diep Tran describes her Good Girl Dinette as "American diner meets Vietnamese comfort food," and her potpie perfectly illustrates this fusion. The pie is a twist on Vietnamese chicken curry, a stewlike dish that's commonly served with rice, noodles or a crusty chunk of baguette. Tran grew up eating the meal with her family -- they run the Pho 79 chain of Vietnamese noodle shops in L.A. Tran's version becomes a potpie with the addition of a flaky buttermilk biscuit crust. (Unlike... More »
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