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Possibly the most compelling culinary reason to visit Whittier, the suburb that gave us Richard Nixon, M.F.K. Fisher and conceptual artist Mark Kostabi, Golden Triangle may be the best place in California to taste Burmese food, a phantasmagoria of a cuisine that draws from the cooking of nearby India, China, Thailand and Laos - the country is in a pretty good neighborhood. The restaurant specializes in the garbanzo-flour-thickened catfish chowder called moh hin gha, the biryani-style rice dish called dun buk htaminh, and lap pad thoke, a salad made with pickled tea leaves that have the consistency of stewed collard greens and the caffeine kick of a double espresso, and also in a sour vegetable dish made with a special Burmese green that the owner grows in his backyard. Then there's the incredible ginger salad, biting shreds of the spice tossed with an almost-too-crunchy melange of coconut, fried garlic, fried yellow peas, peanuts and sesame seeds. If the world ever gave it a chance, ginger salad might have the universal appeal of spaghetti Bolognese.
Dear Mr. Gold:Is there anywhere to get that great Burmese fermented-tea-leaf salad in Los Angeles? I read about one place in Whittier. Anywhere else?David Ury, Los AngelesDear Mr. Ury:Lap ped thoke, the famous salad made with Burmese tea leaves... More »
Golden Triangle The national dish of Burma is a garbanzo-flour-thickened fish chowder called moh hin gha, shot through with noodles, and Golden Triangle does a fantastic catfish version. There is also lap pad thoke, which has a dollop of chewy... More »
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