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Chef Maria Hines went to Mesopotamia, and returned with a few stunning dishes: French fries bathed in duck fat and spinach "cigars" rolled in phyllo dough are wonderful bar noshes, especially when paired with a glass of Lebanese white wine. Yet the seriousness of purpose behind this certified organic restaurant that aims to celebrate the Mediterranean doesn't always translate into tastiness: The menu's booby-trapped with failed falafel, a depressing turkey gyro and an array of other disappointments.
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