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If it's stuffed cabbage you're seeking, you could do worse than the sweetish version served at Goldbergs', which also makes a decent chopped liver and a velvety kishke. The MVPs in the deli clubhouse, including corned beef, lox and bagels, are imported, as is the concept: Goldbergs' was designed as a copy of a famous Detroit deli, and the carbon paper's left a few nasty marks. What feels genuine back in Michigan reads as strained and depressing here, a sense enhanced by the in-mall location.
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