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Almost vegan Gobo--which possesses a familial connection to the Zen Palate chain--is one of Manhattan's odder restaurants. The menu goes for the global, moving effortlessly from South America to China, with many stops in between. We really dug the papaya ceviche and the Peruvian root-vegetable stew, especially since the agreeable orange broth also contained pozole. Too many dishes, however, achieve their results via application of grease and sugar, and the prices seem awfully high. Lunch specials are a great deal, and the green-tea-colored dining room, open kitchen, and multiculti staff make dining a pleasure.
Founded by descendants of the Zen Palate chain, GOBO handily dispels the notion that vegan food must be bland. Hitting the place again while researching this issue, I found both the butternut squash risotto and the oyster mushrooms--shredded and cooked just like Chinese salt-and-pepper squid--excellent, and the other offerings at least interesting. More »
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