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Usually playing Tony Bennett's "I Left My Heart in San Francisco" on the jukebox is a cliché best left to tourist traps - but hearing the man born Anthony Benedetto sing his ode to S.F. feels right at Gino and Carlo, an old-school Italian joint in North Beach where diehard locals often outnumber visitors. Gino and Carlo is more of a neighborhood hangout than a trendy destination, the kind of place you go to drink fizzy American lager on tap, shoot pool on the two tables in back, and scope out the tributes by Frank Sinatra, Herb Caen, and other icons on the walls. This is the City as it used to be.
As the Giants made their epic run for the pennant and the World Series last year, it was surprisingly difficult to find good places to cheer on Buster, the Beard, Huff Daddy, and the Freak. Most of the sports bars had half their TVs tuned to other contests, an abomination. Other places were too tame, too snarky, too snooty. But the habitués of Gino & Carlo, which has been northeastern S.F.'s Giants Central for decades, strike the perfect balance among ebullience, hard-won insight,... More »
Although it's true that there's no such thing as a free lunch, at one time in our gilded past the saloons of San Francisco would lay out bountiful noontime feasts of oysters, caviar, baked ham, and other salty, thirst-whetting treats, all for the price of a nickel beer. One of the few modern-day exponents of this sorely missed tradition is Gino & Carlo, where on a given 49ers, Warriors, or Giants Sunday the staff will lay a tablecloth across the pool table and set up a buffet of pasta,... More »
If you want to shoot stick in a civilized, Tiffany-lamped setting, head for Chalkers in the Rincon Annex (512-0450). But if you want a little barroom milieu to go with your eight ball, Gino and Carlo is the place. The 58-year-old North Beach saloon not only pours a mean bourbon, it boasts a room in back with two tables, a wide array of cue sticks, dark wood paneling, walls as green as felt, and a gallery of autographed photos from the likes of James Caan, Jake La Motta, and -- big as life --... More »
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