Description
The pan-Latin food at Gilberth's Rotisserie and Grill is exciting, occasionally even excellent, and the industrial-chic decor is well-wrought, but the service can be slow to a fault. The interior has poured-concrete-and-steel-pipe decor, softened with large windows looking out onto Dogpatch's main drag, tall jars of flowers, a bouncy soundtrack, and a large silhouette of a rooster imprinted on a copper sheet along one wall. The menu skews exotic, with tender alligator tacos, a slider trio that offers unusual meats like ostrich and venison, and a juicy lamb-chorizo chorizo burger whose faint hint of earthy lamb is backed by the spice of the chorizo and a smoky aioli. Sides include crispy fried brussels sprouts with a chipotle seasoning nicely complemented by a citrusy tang and salty shaved manchego cheese, and warm plantain chips with house-made salsa. Some dishes struggled for cohesion, like the cactus salad, which turned out to be overdressed butter lettuce garnished with slices of radish, ripe avocado, and slimy grilled cactus.
