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The pan-Latin food at Gilberth's Rotisserie and Grill is exciting, occasionally even excellent, and the industrial-chic decor is well-wrought, but the service can be slow to a fault. The interior has poured-concrete-and-steel-pipe decor, softened with large windows looking out onto Dogpatch's main drag, tall jars of flowers, a bouncy soundtrack, and a large silhouette of a rooster imprinted on a copper sheet along one wall. The menu skews exotic, with tender alligator tacos, a slider trio that offers unusual meats like ostrich and venison, and a juicy lamb-chorizo chorizo burger whose faint hint of earthy lamb is backed by the spice of the chorizo and a smoky aioli. Sides include crispy fried brussels sprouts with a chipotle seasoning nicely complemented by a citrusy tang and salty shaved manchego cheese, and warm plantain chips with house-made salsa. Some dishes struggled for cohesion, like the cactus salad, which turned out to be overdressed butter lettuce garnished with slices of radish, ripe avocado, and slimy grilled cactus.
There's a forlorn air that hangs over an empty restaurant, and persists no matter how good the meal or how handsome the dining room. The pan-Latin food at Gilberth's Rotisserie and Grill is exciting, occasionally even excellent, and the... More »
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