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Giannoni's claims on its menu to serve "vera pizza napoletana," and its combinations are named the Rustica and the Capricciosa. But the graffiti and Saturday Night Fever poster on the wall—not to mention the fact that you can get pizza by the slice—points to New York, not Naples. The pies come with crusts as thin and crackly at the center as Saltines and poofed-up rims that are 99 percent air. Most important, each slice passes the fold test. And like good New York pies, you need to eat yours in-house to obtain the maximum benefits.
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