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Few can make a pizza crust like Sharon Ardiana. Glossy and golden, the rolling swell of the lip barely tamed, the crust seems to float off the plate; every bite resounds with a hollow crack. Ardiana's seasonal pies ― in the spring, say, finely chopped asparagus with Meyer lemon and a farm-cooked egg ― always catch the eye first, the Atomica (mushrooms, onions, chiles) have justly earned a permanent spot on the menu. The tiny, casual Glen Park restaurant gives almost as much attention to starters (fresh salads, excellent salumi) and the roast of the day, and the all-Italian wine list is well-chosen. Children are welcome.
Wood, shmood, asserts Gialina Pizzeria's Sharon Ardiana, who's preparing to install a gas-fired Wood Stone oven in her second restaurant, Ragazza. It's not about what lights your fire, it's about how ... More »
A couple of years ago, my neighborhood was distinctly improved by a new bakery. I was dashing out its door the other Sunday with a ham-and-spinach quiche and a couple of pieces of raspberry and rhubarb buckle when Peter and Anita, who'd... More »
This tiny, new neighborhood spot in Glen Park is named in honor of the owner's grandmother Nonni Lina, featured in huge, blown-up black-and-white photos on the claret-colored walls. The menu is short, but the irregularly shaped pizzas are long on flavor. The crisp, thin crusts are incredibly savory, and the toppings are of the best quality: Framani salumi from Berkeley's Paul Bertolli, Tutto Calabria chilies from Italy, Perlagrigia truffled cows' milk cheese from Venice, vegetables from the... More »
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