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None of the Vietnamese restaurants in Sunset Park"s Chinatown are extraordinary, but this is decidedly the best of the bunch. It"s mainly run by folks who are ethnically Chinese, but that, of course, doesn"t mean that they can"t cook Vietnamese food. The menu is lengthy, and includes several kinds of banh mi, pho, rice dishes and b"un (cold rice vermicelli bowls). The cha gio (spring rolls) are excellent-with burnished, crunchy fried skins filled with a funky mix of pork. Best of all is banh hoi, a dish composed of swatches of rice noodle sheets, the noodles pressed together into a sort of mesh mat. Use the noodle sheets to wrap up grilled pork or shrimp, plus mint, basil and pickled vegetables. Don"t forget to dip it in the fish sauce.
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