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The breakfast burrito is a straightforward thing: greasy bacon, crunchy hash browns, eggs whipped to a silken consistency, wrapped around a flour tortilla I wish were just a bit more burnt, with a respectable salsa on the side. Cut in half, each portion's insides-compact layer upon compact layer-look like those cutaway diagrams of Earth in your geography class that showed the planet from magma to stratosphere. The tradition here is to dunk each bite in ranch dressing; the combination of fat-on-fat-on-fat transforms this gem into something approaching a slightly melted chicharrón.
Like Cambodians owning doughnut shops and Cubans starting Mexican-produce empires, one of Southern California’s great anthropological culinary mysteries is how old hamburger stands became the best places to find breakfast burritos. A’s Burgers in... More »
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