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This very unusual Chinese restaurant is implanted in a gambling casino run by a Malaysian corporation at a broken-down racetrack, but manages to turn out some of the city’s best dim sum between the hours of 11am to 3pm every day. All the usual varieties are available, plus a few you might not have seen before, and you can eat as the ponies run past the picture windows, season permitting. At dinner, the place gears up for the sort of high-end Cantonese rarely seen in the city, with bird’s nest soup, simple abalone preparations, and shark's fin dishes leading the way—all of questionable sustainability—plus market-price seafood pulled from pristine tanks. The lower end of the expensive menu is where to focus, including marinated pork knuckles with liquor, crab e-fu noodles, and short ribs with crushed garlic.
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