Description
Ganso is a wonderful ramen shop in a frankly weird location. The shio broth featuring sea salt is a case in point. In the style of Tokyo ramen joints, it’s a beautiful amber color, and so delicate that it allows the ramen to shine. The house special broth is another Tokyo-style broth--this one made with flavorsome soy, in which both pork shoulder and belly are deposited, the usual jiggly egg, and clutch of bitter greens that vary daily according to the whim of the chef. Two of the six broths offered are made with spicy miso--which demonstrates the current popularity of spicy food in Tokyo, but also in Brooklyn. But Ganso offers a co-specialty with the ramen: an advanced series of apps that could constitute an entire meal in themselves. Included are a lacy take on gyoza pork-stuffed dumplings; distinguished shumai, each proudly wearing a green soybean on its breast; and, best of all, chicken pressed under a brick, skin-on and sluiced with a dark sauce. --Robert Sietsema
