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Ruddy, fat-flecked goat stew (birria) is a Gallardos specialty. The meat is chewy and half-blackened; the broth is rich and soothing, especially once it's doctored with raw onions, cilantro, and lime. In addition to birria, weekend diners at this homey Mission District Mexican restaurant, love ordering the chilaquiles and menudo. The open kitchen means you can catch a glimpse of your meal coming together as you wait - sipping a cold Pacifico and enjoying the procession of families, hungover hipsters, and mariachi performers passing through.
I had a whole seasonal angle in mind for this week's full-length restaurant review of Mexican, Salvadoran, and Guatemalan soups in the Mission. And then, well ... just look out the window. Y... More »
By rights, San Francisco should be deep into soup season, when our space heaters strain to combat the cold leaching through the windows of our Edwardian apartments, and dampness clings to sweaters and bus seats like bad juju. Through January and... More »
Sunday Morning Ritual It's not hard to spot your bowl of Gallardos' birria ($7.50) coming out of the kitchen, snaking around the families filling the center of the dining room, gliding toward a soft landing below your nose. The stew is the red... More »
There are birrias so thick they could be mistaken for moles, but at this 51-year-old Mission restaurant whose tables still fill with diners every Saturday and Sunday, the lamb stew, estilo San Juan de Lagos, is an elegant, near-transparent carmine. The brilliant color comes naturally, roasted tomatoes simmered with fistfuls of dried chiles -- guajillos for fruitiness, New Mexicos for heat. Before you cover the surface of the soup with chopped onions and cilantro and squeeze in a bit of... More »
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