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Gabriel Slimp serves his barbecued meats just as God and man intended: naked (with sauce on the side). You want to pay attention to how his brisket and ribs turn out, with their shiny black crust, red smoke ring just underneath, and tender but not mushy flesh, with all the fat and collagen melted out during the long, slow roast. You do get your choice of sauces, which range from sweet-tart Carolina to teriyaki; they're not nearly as compelling as the plain meat, though, so a dab of the tomato-based Kansas is all you'll want. Order it by the sandwich or as part of a combo plate, with a side of creamy mac 'n' cheese or a tangy, orange-tinted potato salad.
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