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Fu Wing Low in Fountain Valley is a house of Chinese lunch specials and massive family dinners, of five egg foo youngs and rumaki, that tiki-age appetizer of liver chunks wrapped with bacon that screams for a mai tai (only beer and wine here, alas). These types of restaurants are relics, but beloved relics creep into the Southern Californian mind whenever we get a craving for pepper beef.
"I'll have what I always get," said the middle-aged man upon entering Fu Wing Low, sounding as satisfied as Mike Trout flying across the outfield to make a catch by the tip of his glove. "The veggie moo shu. I don't need anything else, ever." The... More »
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