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This obscure Williamsburg old-timer, one of Brooklyn's great repositories of Italian-American cuisine, is even better than we remembered it. The baked clams are superb, eight of varying size heaped with seasoned breadcrumbs laked in heavenly cooking juices, but the eggplant rollatini ("stuffed eggplant" on the menu) is every bit as good, oozing the most perfect ricotta you've ever tasted. Entrée-wise, go for the Sicilian chicken or the veal, house-style, which melts mozzarella over four patties in a zesty, lemon-laced sauce. Pastas are profuse and delicious. The bunker-like premises are straight out of the Joe McCarthy 1950s.
Brooklyn has all sorts of old-fashioned Italian-American restaurants, where red sauce is king and baked pastas are the thing to get (indeed, anything that has ricotta or eggplant in it, too). Around since 1959, Frost--named after the obscure Williamsburg street it sits on, rather than any meteorological phenomenon--serves up a zinger of an eggplant rollatini, and the chicken, Sicilian style, is not too shabby, either. (Make sure you order it "with the bone" because that's where all the f... More »
Robert Sietsema: The meatballs are almost the size of slow-pitch softballs, as the pair lands on the well-sauced spaghetti mountain at Frost Restaurant, a palace of Italian-American cuisine hidden on a back street among the high-rise condos of Williamsburg. The founders hail from the southern Campania town of Teggiano, and, when it comes to meatballs, they know whereof they speak.Sarah DiGregorio: Spaghetti and meatballs isn't on Forlini's menu, but ask if it's available and the pud... More »
Overlooked by all but the most stalwart foodies, located in a concrete-block structure that looks like a bunker in southern Lebanon, Frost is named not after the frozen rime that accumulates on your window around Christmas, but after the street on which it stands. Anything labeled Sicilian is totally cool, including the bone-in chicken pieces swimming in grease and garlic called Sicilian chicken. As with most Italian American places in town, anything made with the excellent ricotta is also... More »
Eggplant rollatine is a bellwether for Neapolitan cooking--it's so simple, yet difficult to get exactly right. The ricotta filling must be scintillatingly fresh, the thin-sliced eggplant successfully evacuated of its bitter juices, and the tomato sauce must sparkle, yet not overwhelm the other delicate flavors. No place does this dish quite like FROST, an obscure and self-effacing Williamsburg old-timer that looks like a military bunker. Don't hesitate--push your way inside. More »
We've always depended on noodles for a cheap, fast meal, and with the economy on the skids, we've never needed them as much as we need them now. Luckily, there are more types to choose from in New York than ever before. The recent flood of... More »
Brooklyn has over a dozen eateries that reflect immigration from Naples and the surrounding region of Campania a century ago. Their scarlet cooking has long since been assimilated into the American mainstream, establishing pizza, lasagna, and... More »
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