Those who savored the limited menu and casual vibe of the original Frankies Spuntino may be mildly disappointed: the third, West Village branch of this burgeoning mini-empire is bigger, more expensive, and more pretentious. The food, however, remains good, a seamless melding of Italian regional and Italian-American cuisines, with an emphasis on Southern Italian ingredients and techniques. There’s a superb cheese service, and a list of sandwiches on rosemary bread as a budget fall-back, but the things you’ll remember the next day are the pastas, including ravioli stuffed with sage and sweet potatoes in parmesan broth, and cavatelli in brown butter enriched with hot sausage made at Faicco’s, a few blocks away on Bleecker Street.
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