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Miami New Times
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This northern outpost of two-decades-old Peruvian restaurant El Francesco, renowned as one of Lima's top seafood spots, fills a niche -- change "niche" to "humongous hole" -- left gaping by Miami's other Peruvian eateries, tasty though the food at some of these luncheonette-looking places may be. Namely it's upscale. The food's a dress-up version of usual Miami Peruvian fare, too, dramatically magnifying all the characteristic-of-the-country Asian and European fusion elements that make most chefs feel Peru's cuisine is the most interesting in Latin America. A must is the ceviche or tiradito (ceviche sans onion) sampler, a choice of fish or shellfish with all four of Francesco's sauces: traditional citrus marinade, garnished with Peruvian corn; mild aji amarillo, Peru's distinctive yellow pepper; slightly hotter, complex rocoto; and a creamy house vinaigrette. Otherwise, avoid all dishes described as "gratin" and diners can be sure of a uniquely enjoyable meal.
Ceviche is not a complicated dish to prepare. At its simplest, it is a combination of fresh fish in lime juice and salt; cilantro and onions are almost always added. That's the basic rendition served at Francesco, whose seafood of choice is corvina ($16), shrimp ($17), or a combo of those two with scallops, octopus, and calamari ($16). But you can likewise request your ceviche prepared with mild aji amarillo sauce or Francesco's fantastically fiery rocoto -- or try all three sauces with... More »
Other dining establishments might pop to mind when dwelling upon Coral Gables' finest, for the "City Beautiful" boasts an enviable array of worthwhile dinner spots. But this Peruvian gem, tucked away on a quiet, nondescript street, is suffused with the sort of across-the-board excellence and attention to detail that would make a Michelin writer swoon; especially considering that entrées are so very reasonably priced, in the mid-twenty-dollar range (although some go up to $44). The... More »
Of all the benefits Spanish conqueror Francisco Pizarro imagined might result from his midsixteenth-century destruction of Peru's great Inca empire, a culinary revolution producing what many chefs consider the most sophisticated cuisine of any... More »
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