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There's a kind of food writing that I absolutely hate, which is when the express purpose of the piece seems to be to tell you about some marvelous dish that you can't have, or some extraordinary restaurant that you'll never get a reservation at... More »
This corner restaurant, a long, narrow room with pleasant but unprepossessing decor, offers the exciting cooking of Shanghai, mostly long-cooked braises and stews rather than quick stir-fries. Start with the characteristic cold appetizer platters, including wine chicken (delicate poached chicken marinated in Shaoxing wine sauce), smoked fish (slices glazed with sweet ginger sauce), five-spice beef, and poached chilled duck with peppercorns. Continue with clay pot dishes such as the Shanghai p... More »
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