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This congenial neighborhood café peddles small wonders like proper seltzer, a strong Tom Collins, and delicious country-style paté. At lunch, the sandwiches are particularly good, including a stellar reconstruction of the New Orleans-style muffuletta, and a banh mi filled with fat slices of pork paté. Don't miss the bluefish rillettes, which sometimes sell out later in the evening. Other lovely things to eat include perfect oysters, deviled eggs with creamy, whipped centers that taste of good mustard and yolks, and the brick-red cashews fried with smoked paprika.
The day after Hurricane Sandy hit New York, beloved Red Hook restaurant Fort Defiance began a long clean up, which started by moving their wine collection over to a storage facility. Now the Fort w... More »
St. John Frizell has been through a lot over the past four months. His much-loved Red Hook restaurant, Fort Defiance, was nearly destroyed during Hurricane Sandy. "We got six to eight feet of water i... More »
You've survived another holiday season. Have you ever had better reason to settle into a dark bar with a stiff drink? I didn't think so. But, as we battle through the next few long john-wearing mont... More »
No doubt about it, New Year's Eve is stressful. There are so many options, yet none of them seem like they'll live up to the hype New Year's Eve is supposedly all about. But this year, there's hope!... More »
In the months since Hurricane Sandy left some New York-area communities in a state of panic and disaster, no neighborhood has stepped up in a more inspiring and positive way than Red Hook. Today Al... More »
The Smith and 9th streets subway station is closed, but don't let that stop you from hopping the B61 or walking over to Red Hook from nearby Carroll Gardens for a full, food-packed day. The grimy, somewhat isolated Brooklyn neighborhood has a small-town feel and some great eats all within a few blocks: Work your way down Van Brunt Street, starting with a Korean-American brunch at the Good Fork and excellent, reasonably priced cocktails at Fort Defiance. For an afternoon sweet, head to the... More »
It won't gild your drink with gold flake, it won't set it aflame, it won't muddle it with cloudberries grown by Swedish virgins and picked at the full moon. Really, it's not even a bar, more of a neighborhood café that just happens to serve some of the friendliest, most satisfying, and most reasonably priced cocktails in the five boroughs. St. John Frizzell, a former bartender at the Pegu Club and the Good Fork, opened Fort Defiance in Red Hook in 2009. The menu changes seasonally,... More »
Should you ever find yourself questioning kosherism, you can't really beat Fort Defiance's cold fried chicken with oysters and bacon. This tasty, protein-heavy dish is served only at brunch, however. Make sure to order it, then tack on an order of the Dutch pancake, which arrives in a piping-hot cast-iron pan is topped with warm blueberry compote, a little maple syrup, and a gentle dusting of powdered sugar. This is not a pancake. This is so much more than a pancake. 365 Van Brunt Stree... More »
The Red Hook waterfront doesn't much resemble New Orleans, although Erie Basin can exude a rather Bayou-esque scent and Fairway will supply you with everything you need to create a splendid oyster po'boy. But since last year, one local bar, Fort Defiance, has been making the Big Apple feel that much Big Easier. After stints as a food writer, bartender, and Jedi-level backyard barbecuer, St. John Frizell opened the Southern-spiked watering hole. There's a food menu, and our critics assure us... More »
Sometimes the most memorable dishes are the simplest. But while Fort Defiance's deviled eggs may be short on menu descriptors, they're certainly not lacking in thoughtful preparation. In addition to using the usual mayo, chef Bobby Duncan whips his yolks with Greek yogurt, which makes them even creamier and bestows a subtle tang. They're further adulterated with Old Bay, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper, and then showered with cured mustard seeds. The crunch of the seeds provides invigorating... More »
RobtS: The designation "New American" is absurd because it's really a catch-all for all sorts of creative food that lacks one particular ethnic influence. SarahDG: Seconded. RobtS: Where the rubber meets the road is in places designated as bistros. While Joseph Leonard is clearly a French bistro, the status of Watty & Meg is uncertain. It flaunts its regional borrowings--shrimp and grits, for example--but the bedrock of the menu is clearly French, like red wine reductions in... More »
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