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When you walk in this place, you feel like you got off I-45 at the Guadalajara exit. The walls are bedecked with a jaw-dropping display of Mexican pottery. Old-fashioned black fans churn the air from the high ceilings. Giant bottles filled with agua fresca line the drink station. This place does a better job on slow-simmered meat dishes, Mexican breakfasts and other typical south-of-the-border fare than it does on Tex-Mex. So try the huevos, the guisados and the pork dishes, and forget about the combo platters.
The huarache de steak ($3.95) at Fonda Doña Maria (120 Tidwell, 713-695-5540) could be the original "sole food," since "huarache" means "sandal" in Spanish and perfectly describes the shape of the thick piece of hand-thrown masa that forms the... More »
Bright shades of clashing yellow and blue paint throb in the blinding summer sun. The tropical color scheme of Fonda Dona Maria's exterior blurs into a fuzzy-edged optical illusion in my bleary eyes. Even with sunglasses I have to look the other... More »
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